12 Hours in Clermont

When a friend of mine came to visit a few weeks ago, she brought with her a blog that was written by a native Parisian that chronicled what she would do in Paris if she had just 12 hours. We followed some of the advice and it was a great way to have a different kind of experience in Paris. When she got back to the states, my friend then wrote her own chronicle of what to do with 12 hours in her home city of NYC.
I am going to go out on a limb and assume that this has never been done for Clermont-Ferrand. I could Google it, but that wouldn’t be any fun, plus it wouldn’t be my version. So, after living here for almost 10 months, I present to you, my version of “What to do with 12 hours in Clermont-Ferrand, France.”
Firstly, I’m going to assume you are American, or English speaking at least, so not native French. I’m also going to assume that it is Saturday, because that is when normal people have time for 12 hours of fun. I’m also going to paint you a perfect mid 70s day with lots of sun, exactly like the weather here was last Saturday. Start your journey at the Cathedral; it is the easiest place to find. Ready. Set. Enjoy!

10am – Make your way to Marche St. Pierre. You’ll walk down the lively Rue des Gras and you can see what will become an awfully bustling little street as the day progresses. At the market, wander around and marvel at all the colorful fruits and vegetables and, if you aren’t used to such things, gawk at the meat counters displaying fowl with their heads still on and rabbits skinned, but otherwise completely in tact for your discerning eye. Since you ate such a small breakfast (I know this because you are in France), you’re going to stock up for a lunch-picnic in the park. Wander over to the fromagerie and pick out some cheese to enjoy. Stop by the produce stands and pick out some interesting fruits that you’ve never had before. Try figues, quetsch, and a host of other interesting fruits. Then make your way outside to the square and find the chacuterie shop. Get some variety of sausages to enjoy. Hold off on purchasing bread though, there’s a better place for that!
11am – Now that you are loaded with some delightful lunch fixings, there are a few more items to pick up before you make your way to the lunch location. From Marche St. Pierre, walk back up Rue des Gras, and marvel at how many more people have emerged in the short amount of time that you were perusing the market. Make sure to train your eye above eye level at some point to take in the marvelous view of the Cathedral. When you get to the Cathedral, follow it around to the left and to the other side and take Rue de Port down to Place de Lille. In Place de Lille, stop in the artisan boulangerie and purchase some macaroons. They are big, and you will want to share, so don’t go too crazy.
11:30 – Your next stop is for wine. Make your way to Au Petit Bercy at 31, rue Ballainvilliers. If you speak English or French, good! If not, well French wine is never bad, right? Choose a bottle of wine and head off to Jardin LeCoq, but first a quick trip to the boulangerie for your bread.
12 - Descend Boulevard Lafayette one block to Au St. Laurent de la Patisserie. Don’t know what all the choices are? Grab a baguette viennoise and a baguette ordinaire and you’ll be set. Now make your way to the park.
12:30-2:30 – At this little oasis of delightfully landscaped gardens, you are going to enjoy a leisurely lunch in the park. Don’t think for a second that this is a stuff-your-face-and-run kind of outing. When in France, if you aren’t eating between 12-2, you aren’t going to be doing anything else, because, well, everyone else is eating too. Relax and enjoy. Maybe sneak in a little nap.
2:30 – After enjoying your time in the park, you’re going to head back up to the Cathedral, but this time you are going all the way to the top of the towers to enjoy a great view of Clermont, Montferrand and the line of volcanoes in the distance. When you get to the Cathedral, first take a look around at the black rock, pulled from the base of the volcanoes, and take in the sheer magnitude of the monstrous building. When you’re ready, head to the west side of the building. Next to the exit door you’ll see a wooden door that gives you passage to the tower. Pay your fee and head up the steps to the top. Take your time and soak in the majesty of the view.
4 – Your next destination is thankfully right at your exit from the Cathedral. There is a rugby game at 4:30 (if there isn’t, it probably is at 2:30, in which you switch the Cathedral viewing until after the game). Have a seat outside in the square at Café Pascal, order yourself a demi-peche: a half-pint of beer mixed with peach sirop. You won’t find anything like it in the US, so savor the taste and if you must, swear you’ll never do that again. But at least you now know how a large percentage of French men drink their beers! Voraciously try and understand the convoluted rules of rugby, or just enjoy the locals yelling at their favorite athletes, but mostly just people watch and assess the fashion sense (or seemingly lack of it) that you’ll see around you.
6:30 – Ecstatic about the ASM (that’s the rugby team’s name if you happened to miss it) win and feeling pretty good about life in general, it is time for you to begin preparing for dinner. I’m going to give you the option here of heading back to your hotel to “clean up” for dinner, but if you don’t need that, then head over to Café de la Mairie and ask for a bottle of the Gamay wine. It is a regional red and smooth, yet tasty. The café is small and intimate, yet a great place for seasoned locals and if you are lucky there will be live music.
8 – At this point you are ready for dinner, or if you aren’t, I am, so that’s your next stop. You’re in route to Pescajoux on Rue du Port. You’ll be greeted by Vincente and Bruno is in the back whipping up your meal. The place has atmosphere and usually interesting local art on the walls. My favorite galette is the Popeye, but only have it if you adore spinach! Make sure you drink some cidre with your galettes like the “real” French do, and never pass up dessert crepes. My favorite is the After 8 because I get ice cream and Chantilly with chocolate. Life could be worse. Please do finish your meal though, there is ear twisting involved if you don’t. There is virtually no way that the meal will take less than 2 hours and if it does, relax and have a coffee to top off your night.

Congratulations, you’ve spent 12 hours in Clermont. Sure, there might not be anything flashy to do, but you’ve had a pretty genuine day-in-the-life Saturday experience. Bien joué!