Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Albi

We left Clermont in the rain and pops drove in it all the way to Albi. We were without a GPS on this trip, I'm convinced they aren't necessary, as I haven't had one for any of the road trips I have taken in France. The trick is that you can't expect to drive straight there. You have to teleport yourself back about 3 years when you actually had to read a map, and sometimes stop and ask for directions. Really, if you just put yourself in the mindset that it might take slightly longer than the 4hrs and 2 minutes that mapquest says, it really isn't that bad. I haven't slept in the car yet, and manage to find my destination every time. It is part of the taking a chill pill and being on vacation. Anyway, we found our hotel after a few looks at the city map on the placard in the main place and a "beer stop" which had a dual purpose of buying the tired driver a beer to help him unwind from the drive and to ask the owner where the heck our hotel was.
Sadly it was still a bit rainy in the morning, but nothing horrible, so out we went to see Albi. The main attraction we went for was the Toulouse-Loutrec Museum. If you don't know the name, he's the guy that did the poster for Moulin Rouge back in the day. He has a really excentric style and was quite the character. I'll just tell you he died at 36 from complications of alcoholism (he's said to have created the drink "earthquake" half absinthe and half cognac) and syphillis. I quite enjoyed some of his paintings, he did some really cool things with colors and brushstrokes. The rest of his work was interesting too, as it mostly centered around prostitutes and actresses.
After we finished at the museum we walked to the cathedral, but it was closing for lunch, so we went on a hunt for a place to eat lunch. Using our trusted Rick Steves, the first place we found was on annual vacation (bien sur), but the second place was absolutely marvelous. It is called Tournesol and is completely vegetarian. I had falafel, mom had couscous and dad had lasagna that he wasn't sure he would like, but did! It was delighfully perfect. Then came dessert. A brownie for mom that she coveted and kept commenting on the "lightness" of and a piece of apple tart for dad. I, of course, could not let them enjoy their sugar fixes alone, so ordered up a third spoon and partook in the enjoyment.
Before heading to the Cathedral, we went down to the river and crossed the bridge to the "wrong side of the river". It is where the working people lived in the old times when the Cathedral side was for the clergy and nobility. The views were absolutely lovely. The water and leaves and bridges were great.
Finally we made it to the Cathedral. Interesting note about the cathedral in Albi, it is made out of brick. I can't tell you another church that I have seen in Europe that is as old as it is (built starting in 1282). Apparently it is the largest brick building in the world. Another point to note is that it still had its screen. Most cathedrals used to have the choir screen to separate the clergy from the normal folks. During the back and forth religious affiliations of royalty back in the day, at some point most choir screens were removed from Cathedrals, but not in Albi. They still have theirs and it is neat. It is really detailed and looks like it took a bunch of work. Also, the ceiling of the Cathedral is neat because it has never been restored, but the colors are incredibly vibrant. Finally, initially the church had this huge painting of the Last Judgement behind the altar, but during some renovations the middle was cut out to build another part onto the church. Interestingly, the part that was cut out of the painting was the part where Jesus appeared in the work. So, now there is a painting of the Last Judgement, without Jesus. Unfortunately we didn't get to see this painting because it was behind scaffolding. Dope!


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